Preparing to backpack in Patagonia is no simple task. The online information is scarce, wordy and outdated. I made this guide so your travels will be more effortless, less complicated and entirely impressive. It’s a lot of information but trust me, it’s worth the read.
Sections of this guide:
PART 1: Why You Should Go
PART 2: Basic Info
PART 3: Before You Leave Home
PART 4: Getting to the Park
PART 5: Accommodations Before/After the Trek
PART 6: Accommodations Within the Park
PART 7: How to Book a Campsite
PART 8: Detailed Day-By-Day Breakdown
PART 9: Day-By-Day Hike Times
PART 10: Packing List
PART 11: Tips For the Trip
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PART 1: Why Should You Go?
Nowhere else will you see such raw, untouched and diverse beauty. Torres del Paine features some of the most beautiful terrain in the world yet it is easily accessed, contains drinkable water and doesn’t require a guide. Each day brings unique scenery keeping your eyes (and legs) busy. Along the way you’ll meet like-minded people from around the globe.
This world-renowned hike should be on everyone’s bucket list!
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PART 2: Basic Information
Pronouncing the park:
Map:
What’s the difference between the “W” Circuit and the “O” Circuit?
Named after their shapes, the different treks can be seen on the map above. The W Circuit is the shorter, more trafficked route that forms the shape of a “W” while the O Circuit is the longer, more remote route that forms the shape of an “O.” The O Circuit includes the entire W Circuit as well as the park’s backcountry. On average, it takes people 4-6 days to complete the “W” and 6-10 days to complete the “O.” While camping is not required on the W (indoor accommodations are available), camping is necessary to complete the O circuit.
Should I do the “W” Circuit or the “O” Circuit?
If you have the time, do the O Circuit. You’ll miss some of the most amazing views of the park backcountry if you only hike the W. The O is also less crowded and features my favorite campsite of all time (Refugio Dickson).
To see pictures of what you’ll miss out on if you only hike the W click here.
Do I need a guide?
Absolutely not. There is only one path circling the park and it is easy to follow. However, many companies offer guides if you decide to go that route.
Weather:
All four seasons may appear in one day. Dress in layers and be prepared for anything. The Park Rangers told us they no longer bother to check the weather because it’s never right and changes constantly. All you can do is hope for the best and come well equipped.
When to go:
Fall, Spring or Summer (Oct-April). Chile lies in the Southern Hemisphere and therefore their seasons are opposite of the Northern Hemisphere. While Summer months may be the warmest (Nov-Feb), they are also the most crowded. Note many parts of the park are closed in the Winter. More details can be found here.
Animals:
Beautiful wildlife
Cool bird sightings—you can’t miss the huge Andean condors
Nothing too dangerous to be afraid of during the day
Be cautious of Pumas early in the morning and late at night (although they’re more scared of you than you are of them)
Mice may chew your bag or tent so keep food properly stored
Cooking/Fires in the Park:
Absolutely no fires are allowed in the park. Cooking with your canister or alcohol stove can only be done in designated areas of the park’s campsites.
Food in the Park:
Small food stores/stands (called Alimentacions) are situated at the refugios and (most) private campgrounds throughout the park. However, prices are roughly twice the cost of normal retail items. You can buy basic non-perishable items such as: soda, cookies, candy bars, pasta, tomato sauce, and sometimes even wine. We saw fuel canisters available at a couple as well. Additionally, hot sit-down meals are available for purchase at some campsites. It’s recommended to reserve and pay in advance to guarantee your spot but walk-ins are occasionally available. Dinner seating is normally around 7:00PM.
Water:
Passed streams approximately every hour of hiking.
Can be drunk without treatment in most areas of the park. Even if the water looks a little foggy, we never had any issues.
Only drink water from rushing streams (avoid stagnant water).
Avoid streams near cattle and filter, clean or boil the water if you’re nervous.
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PART 3: Before You Leave Home
See packing list.
Get the required vaccines: Hepatitis A and Typhoid. Updated info can be found here.
Consider getting a travelers' diarrhea antibiotic as well, such as Ciprofloxacin HCL.
Consider your cell phone plan (no service within Torres del Paine but expensive Wi-Fi is available for purchase).
Bring some USDs in case you have issues with the ATM when arriving in Chile. Consider getting some Chilean pesos from your bank before leaving home.
Print your flight, bus, hostel, and campsite confirmations along with copies of your passport. The Wi-Fi is spotty and unreliable so it’s best to have your own hard copies.
Print and review map of Torres del Paine, marking where you’ll be staying each night.
Call your bank and tell them where you’ll be traveling so your card doesn’t get declined.
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PART 4: Getting to the Park
This is no easy task. Our travel path took many hours and went as follows:
Transportation Tips:
Leave plenty of time between flights and buses for more relaxed travel (account for border control and customs when making layovers)
Although the website seemed semi-sketchy we had no issues flying on Sky Airlines from Santiago to Punta Arenas. The overhead bins were huge and perfect for our large backpacks.
I recommend only bringing a carry-on to avoid waiting for luggage at the airport or losing gear due to lost baggage.
Pre-book your bus ticket from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales because it fills up fast.
We used Bus Sur, took 2 hours and 20 minutes. All buses from the airport tend to run behind schedule.
Cost: $6.000 CLP, approximately $9 USD
Border Control and Customs:
It took a good 2 hours to get through the Santiago airport.
Upon arrival in Santaigo you must wait in line to get your passport stamped. You will also receive a Tourist Card (lasts up to 90 days) which must be returned upon departure. Do not lose this piece of paper or you will pay fines.
Next stop: Customs to turn in the form from the airplane (listing the items you’re bringing into the country).
We heard horror stories of people lying about not bringing anything into the country and being investigated. We checked the box saying we were bringing “animal/ plant food” to avoid this. We had no problem bringing in backpacking meals, freeze-dried fruits and jerky. Keep food in its original packaging & bring Ziploc bags to divide into smaller portions later.
Lastly, we went through Santiago airport security again to board our flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas (no need to remove shoes or take out liquids).
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PART 5: Accommodations Before/After the Trek
I recommend staying at least one full day before and after your trek in Puerto Natales. (Cute town worth exploring and nice to recover from jetlag.)
Two Good Options for Accommodations:
Tip: If you have additional items you’re traveling with (that you don’t want to bring backpacking), pay for a storage locker at your hostel. At Hostel Last Hope it cost us $2.000 CLP (approximately $3.10 USD) for the whole week.
Be sure to attend the free Erratic Rock Hostel information session. It happens daily at 3pm.
Tip: Get there early because seats fill up.
Tip: Grab free, partially used, fuel canisters at the Erratic Rock. Saves you money.
Tip: If you didn’t bring garbage bags the Erratic Rock has some. Line your backpack with one for extra protection from rain!
For ideas of what to do and where to eat while in Puerto Natales check out this blog post.
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PART 6: Accommodations Within the Park
No wild camping is available in the park. As of 2017, all accommodations (free and paid) must be reserved online before entering the park. They will check for your reservations at each campsite. Limited space is available so plan accordingly.
Your 4 options for lodging include:
1. Hotel: Las Torres
There is one full-service hotel in the park called Hotel Las Torres Patagonia. It is located on the W Circuit.
2. Refugios: Grey, Paine Grande, Los Cuernos, Chileno, Dickson
Paid lodging that feature both outdoor camping and indoor beds for guests. They (often) have toilets, hot showers, cooking areas, and power outlets available to campers. You may also add on and request sheets, tents, Wi-Fi and other camping gear.
Warm meals are also served for a fee, reservation required (although, sometimes they can squeeze you in if you didn’t make one).
3. Private/Paid campsites (Campamentos): Seron, Los Perros
Cost a small fee and have more amenities than free camping.
4. Free Campsites (Campamentos): Italiano, Torres, Paso
Offer wind shelters for cooking and that’s about it.
Drop toilets
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PART 7: How to Book a Campsite
Booking campsites can be confusing as different sections of the park are owned by three separate agencies: Fantástico Sur, Vertice Patagonia, and CONAF. You must book each campsite on the corresponding agency’s website. As of 2017 all campsites must be reserved ahead of time. While bookings can be done in person in Puerto Natales, it is recommended to book all campsites online in advance to guarantee your spot. To do so, alternate between the corresponding websites to make your bookings.
Note: Before making your bookings, you’ll need to check the availability of every campsite to ensure you have accommodations every night of your trek.
See the agencies and the campsites they manage below:
Las Torres
Chileno
Campamento Seron
Campamento El Frances
Refugio Cuernos
Refugio Dickson
Campamento Los Perros
Refugio Grey
Refugio Paine Grande
Note: These are the free campsites.
Campamento Torres (NOT available for 2017-2018)
Campamento Paso
Campamento Italiano
Tip: Print copies of all your reservations to bring on your trek!
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PART 8: Detailed Day-By-Day Breakdown
This is the day-by-day schedule we followed for backpacking the O Circuit.
Note: Day 3 was the longest day and could be broken up into two days (perhaps a fancy overnight at Hotel Torres).
Day 0:
Spend the night in Puerto Natales.
Day 1:
Bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine
Take the earliest bus available (ours left at 7:30am, arrived at Lacuna Amarga at 9am)
Tip: Sit on the right side of the bus (when facing the driver) for better views.
Do not be late, if you miss the bus you ruin the entire day. Align your bus time to guarantee you'll make the ferry ride.
Upon arrival at the park (Conaf Station AKA Chile office of national agriculture & forestry) you must depart the bus temporarily (~30 min) to fill out some paperwork and pay the entrance fee of $21.000 CLP (approximately $33 USD). They will give you trail map.
You need your passport number
Use restroom & return to bus. It will drive you to the start of the Catamaran/ferry ride.
Ferry to Refugio Paine Grande
On the boat buy roundtrip ferry tickets for $28.000 CLP, approximately ~$43 USD (if you follow this guide you’ll be taking the ferry both ways). There's currently no way to purchase a ticket ahead of time.
Tip: Put your ticket in a safe/dry place inside your backpack. You do not want to lose this and have to purchase another.
Tip: Be one of the last ones on the ferry because you stack your backpacks on the boat and it'll be easier to access if it's on top.
The return ticket can be used at any time.
Our ferry came at 11am at Pudeto (the boat stop) & took ~40 minutes to arrive at Refugio Paine Grande
Tip: If you have to wait awhile for your ferry there’s a ~15-minute hike (one-way) to Salto Grande that features a beautiful waterfall.
Hike from Refugio Paine Grande to Campamento Italiano (including Mirador Frances)
Our hike time: 4 hours, 45 min
Day 2:
Hike from Campamento Italiano to Refugio Chileno
Our hike time: 7 hours, 5 min
Notes:
Ate at restaurant (made reservation ahead of time). It included a four-course dinner, breakfast the next day, and a packed lunch for the road. We paid $90 (per person) for both our campsite and the three meals. It was worth it just being able to sit inside and not have to prepare our own food. Meals are a great chance to socialize with other hikers. Although Campamento Torres is closer to the Torres Towers (and is a free campsite), I recommend staying at Refugio Chileno so you have less distance to carry your backpack.
Tips:
While hiking make sure to take the shortcut towards Chileno (keep going left & uphill, otherwise you’ll end up at Hotel Torres).
Day 3:
Hike from Refugio Chileno to Serón (including sunrise hike to Torres Towers)
Our hike time: 10 hours
Notes:
Long & treacherous day (~18.2 miles). You will be sore the following day. Consider breaking this up into 2 days.
We left our campsite at 3:30am to hike to the Torres Towers for sunrise. It took 1 hour, 40 min to hike there. You’re hiking mostly uphill in pitch black so be sure to have your headlamp. In December, the sun rose around 5:30am.
Since we purchased the dinner, breakfast & lunch combo at Chileno, we relaxed after our sunrise hike enjoying a breakfast and picking up our boxed lunch for later.
Today you will pass Hotel Torres which is an incredibly beautiful and fancy hotel. It’ll make you miss real beds and showers. There’s a snack stand outside if you wish to purchase something.
Next, you’ll walk along the road and go through fields, farmlands, streams and eventually end up in a huge valley (that seems to never end) filled with wild horses.
Tips:
Leave your pack at Chileno for the sunrise hike. We left our tents up & took them down when we returned and the sun was up.
Wear layers because it can be freezing when hiking in the dark but you warm up fast when the sun comes out.
If I were to repeat this trek I would add a day and stay at Hotel Torres for a night (budget permitting)! This long day was a lot for my body to handle no matter how good of shape I was in.
Day 4:
Hike from Serón to Refugio Dickson
Our hike time: 6 hours, 20 min
Notes:
Sleep in! Shorter hike today and you woke up at 3am yesterday.
This was our entire groups’ favorite day so keep your camera handy! Take your time and soak in the views since you have less distance to cover.
Big uphill at the beginning. It was nice to get the hardest part over with at the start of the day.
Took us 3 hours to get to the ranger station (Coirón). You must check in here, showing campsite reservations and your passport.
When you approach Dickson you’ll arrive at the top of a hill overlooking the valley/campsite. This is what I imagine heaven looks like.
Treat yourself to a snack and drink at the little hut (store), ~$3.000 CLP per item, approximately $3.10 USD and head down to the beach.
Bathrooms/showers are located inside the building past the kitchen. First time we had looked in a mirror in 4 days!
Tips:
Not as many streams for getting water today so fill up when you can.
This is the one campsite that you HAVE TO stay at. Most beautiful place I've ever been.
Give your feet an ice bath and wash your clothes at the “beach” nearby Refugio Dickson.
After dinner, avoid the bugs by sitting inside on the comfy benches (perfect for socializing, playing cards, journaling or reading).
Day 5:
Hike from Refugio Dickson to Los Perros
Our hike time: 4 hours, 5 min
Notes:
Sleep in, this is a short day. It was my least favorite in terms of scenery. I wish I would have brought a book to read by the stream near camp.
Had to show our confirmation booking number at the check in station.
Day 6:
Hike Los Perros to Refugio Grey (including hike over the pass)
Our hike time: 8 hours, 15 min
Notes:
Left campsite at 6:30am since we had to go over the pass. The pass is essentially a steep and rocky climb up and down a mountain. It’s very cold and windy at the top and frequently snows.
We were all nervous because if there’s bad weather they close the pass and you must wait for it to re-open (which sometimes isn’t until the next day). We heard horror stories about the pass but it wasn’t that bad and we got lucky with the weather.
Take a lunch/snack break at the open viewpoint after Campamento Paso (you’ll know when you’re there).
The rest of the day consisted of weaving in and out of covered forest areas onto incredible views of the glacier. You cross a couple ladder obstacles and two huge suspension bridges along the way.
Tips:
We probably could have left at 7am for the pass because the sun hadn’t peaked over the mountains yet, making it both colder and darker.
Don't worry about snapping a photo of the glacier when climbing down the pass. Although much of the next couple hours is wooded, you’ll eventually reach amazing views of the glacier.
Day 7:
Hike Refugio Grey to Refugio Paine Grande
Our hike time: 3 hours
Ferry from Paine Grande to bus & bus back to Puerto Natales
Notes:
Check ferry departures to time your hike with the next boat leaving from Refugio Paine Grande
The bus from the ferry back to Puerto Natales didn’t arrive for over an hour. Be prepared to wait. There’s a shop with overpriced sandwiches and snacks if you’re hungry.
Bus back to Puerto Natales took 2 hours, 50 min.
Tips:
Sit on the left side of the bus (when facing the driver) for better views.
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PART 9: Day-By-Day Hike Times
Note: These are the times it took our group of 4 females (early 20s) compared with the times written on the park map given to hikers at the entrance to the park.
Day 1: Hike from Refugio Paine Grande to Campamento Italiano (including Mirador Frances)
Hike time: 4 hours, 45 min (Map says it takes: 4 hours, 30 min)
Note: Option to hike past Mirador Frances to Mirador Britanico (adds 2 hours & less impressive views)
Day 2: Hike from Campamento Italiano to Refugio Chileno
Hike time: 7 hours, 5 min (Park map says it takes 9 hours)
Day 3: Hike from Refugio Chileno to Serón (including sunrise hike to Torres Towers)
Hike time: 10 hours (Park map says it takes 9 hours)
Day 4: Hike from Serón to Refugio Dickson
Hike time: 6 hours, 20 min (Park map says it takes 6 hours)
Day 5: Hike from Refugio Dickson to Los Perros
Hike time: 4 hours, 5 min (Park map says it takes 4 hours, 30 min)
Day 6: Hike Los Perros to Refugio Grey (including hike over the pass)
Hike time: 8 hours, 15 min (Park map says it takes 11 hours)
Day 7: Hike Refugio Grey to Refugio Paine Grande
Hike time: 3 hours (Park map says it takes 3 hours, 5 min)
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PART 10: Packing List
This list is for people backpacking (and camping) the O Circuit during the summer months.
Clothes on top:
Rain coat/ wind breaker
Fleece/warm layer or lightweight (down) coat
2 sports bras
1 tank top
1-2 quick dry t-shirt
1 long sleeve pullover
Waterproof gloves
Winter hat & sun hat
Buff (something to cover mouth, ears & neck)
Clothes on bottom:
Long underwear
Hiking pants or leggings (depends on preference but I liked wearing shorts with hiking pants on top to shed layers easily as the day warms up)
Rain pants (or waterproof hiking pants)
3-4 quick dry breathable underwear
1 pair of shorts
Feet:
Hiking boots
Flip flops or crocs (for wearing in the evenings)
2-3 pairs of hiking socks
Sock liners and/or recovery socks
Gear:
Backpack & waterproof cover
Sleeping bag & sleeping bag liner
Sleeping pad
2 garbage bags
Used to line the inside of your backpack (literally put all your stuff inside a garbage bag)
Hiking poles
They may seem unnecessary but trust me, your knees will thank you.
Camping soap (that can be used on clothes, food and bodies)
Lightweight backpacking tent
Miscellaneous:
Sunglasses
Journal
Headlamp & extra batteries
USB charger (AKA extra battery pack) & cell phone/camera chargers
Cell phone & camera
Waterproof packing bags or packing cubes
Travel towel
Ear plugs/ eye mask (the sun doesn’t set until after 10:30pm in the summer)
Deck of cards
Great way to stay entertained in the evening. Invite other campers to join & meet new people.
Travel packets of Kleenex for your nose and for toilet paper (most campsites have bathrooms but often no toilet paper)
Ziploc bags for keeping things dry and for trash bags (empty at campsites)
Documents:
Passport
Cash (Chilean Pesos)
Accommodation confirmations and booking numbers
Printed map of Torres del Paine (another will be given to you upon entrance into the park)
Food/Drink:
Water bottle & water bladder
Note: you do not need water purifiers
Jet boil & fuel for cooking
Breakfast: 6 oatmeal packets (you'll be hungry enough for 2 packets a day, consider bringing 12)
Lunch/Snacks: Nuts, dried fruit, bars (with protein), jerky, peanut butter, tortillas with Nutella
Dinner: 5 backpacking meals/freeze dried food (we ate at a restaurant for the 6th meal)
Treats: 4+ candy bars (Snickers are the most filling)
Trust me, you’ll want something sweet after hiking all day. They’re 3x more expensive to buy inside the park.
Tea, coffee, hot chocolate and some type of water flavoring packets.
Tip: Before your trip grab honey and hot sauce packets to add flavor to your meals.
First Aid:
First aid kid
Moleskin & duct tape for blisters
Emergen-C
Sun hat & sunscreen
There is a gap in the ozone layer over the park so the sun is extra strong. I recommend a mini bottle so you can keep it in a handy spot for quick application
Tip: Don’t forget your hands & wear it even when it’s cloudy!
Duct tape & rope for temporary tent fixes
Tip: Duct tape is great for wrapping feet and preventing blisters.
Bug spray (We used OFF & it didn’t seem to help. Try a different brand)
Get Ciprofloxacin HCL medicine prescribed by your doctor before leaving in case anyone gets aggressive diarrhea.
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PART 11: Tips You Didn't Think About
Before planning anything else for your trip—Make campsite reservations! Limited space is available.
Practice setting up your tent at home to make sure you have all the pieces.
Bring duct tape. It can be used for temporary fixes, blisters, tent tears, etc.
Pay in Chilean pesos for everything inside the park, USD are way more expensive.
Absolutely bring hiking poles (can be bought or rented in Puerto Natales).
Stretch every day after hiking.
Soak your feet in the ice-cold streams throughout the park for a quick ice bath.
Wear sunscreen even when it’s cloudy. Carrying heavy backpacks is no fun with burnt shoulders.
Only drink water from rushing streams (avoid stagnant water).
Overall, the water at campsites is safe to drink. Even if it looks a little foggy, we always drank it and never had any issues. If you’re scared bring a cleaning solution or boil your water.
If you don't like a food before the trip you're not going to like it during the trip. Just because oatmeal and beef jerky are great for camping doesn't mean you can't find an alternative that you'd like better.
Bring tea, coffee, hot chocolate and some type of water flavoring (like crystal light packets) to switch it up from drinking plain water all the time.
Bring a deck of cards for a social campsite activity in the evenings.
Catch up on your Spanish for Puerto Natales and bring a pocket Spanish guide. We found a lot of people didn’t speak great English.