Overview
San Sebastián, or "Donostia" in Basque, holds a special place in my heart as one of my all-time favorite destinations. This charming coastal city in Spain's Basque Country is known for its beautiful beaches, delicious cuisine, and vibrant culture. It's the kind of place that checks every box: from stunning mountains to pristine beaches, from mouthwatering food to rich cultural experiences.
Logistics
When to Go: The best time to visit San Sebastian is during the summer months (June to August) when the weather is warm and ideal for beach activities. However, it can get crowded during this time, so consider visiting in the shoulder seasons of spring and fall for fewer crowds. We went at the end of September and had beautiful weather!
Weather: San Sebastian has a microclimate similar to the Pacific Northwest of the United States, so expect mild, rainy winters and cool summers. Temps typically stay between 60 - 80 degrees during the summer months.
Trip Length: While you could spend an entire summer exploring every nook and cranny of San Sebastián without getting bored, you'll want to allocate at least three days to soak in the essence of this captivating city. Whether it's a long weekend or an extended stay, there's always something new to discover.
Getting Here: Major airports:
San Sebastián Airport (EAS): closest airport, 30 minutes from the city center
Bilbao International Airport (BIO): largest airport in the region, will have more flight options, about a 1 hour, 15 min drive
Biarritz Pays Basque Airport (BIQ): Located on the French side of the Basque region, about a 40 minute drive
Local Currency: Spain uses the Euro (EUR). Be sure to have some cash on hand for smaller purchases, although credit cards are widely accepted.
Language: While Spanish is widely spoken, many locals also speak Euskara (the Basque language). Learning a few basic phrases in Spanish or Basque can enhance your experience. However, as a touristy city, you will hear a moderate amount of English spoken. We had no issues getting around using English.
You'll see a lot of X's in the Basque language, which makes a "CH" sound when next to a "T". So "Pintxos" is pronounced "Pinchos"
Getting Around: Walking and biking are the best ways to get around. With almost 50 miles of bike lanes and most major attractions within a 15-20 minute stroll, navigating the city on foot is a breeze. The city is also well-connected by public transportation, so you can hop on a bus if needed (they are clean, affordable and reliable!). Taxis are available but you must go to a taxi station or call one:
Call: Taxi Donosti: 943-46-46-46 or Vallina Teletaxi: 943-40-40-40
Taxi stops: in the city center include: Boulevard, Avenida de la Libertad, Idiaquez, Manterola, Estacion Autobuses-Renfe
Uber: As of September 2023, Uber was not yet available in San Sebastian
Note: While you don't need a car to explore the city center, it would be nice if you plan to explore the region
Tipping: Tipping is not obligatory in Spain, but it's appreciated for exceptional service. A tip of 5-10% is customary in restaurants.
Power Voltage/Converter: Spain operates on 230 V with a European plug socket (type F). Make sure to bring a power adapter if traveling from the United States.
Drinking Tap Water: The tap water is high-quality and drinkable.
Beach Essentials: Don't forget to pack sunscreen, a hat, and a towel for a day at the beach. The sun can be strong, especially during the summer months.
Things to Do in San Sebastian
#1: Visit the Beaches: The city is home to three beaches: La Concha, Zurriola, and Ondarreta, each offering unique coastal experiences.
Beach of La Concha: Spend an afternoon relaxing on the sandy shores of La Concha Beach, a picturesque bay with calm waters ideal for swimming and sunbathing.
Zurriola Beach: Head to Zurriola Beach for a taste of San Sebastian's surf culture. Watch the surfers ride the waves or take a surf lesson yourself. This beach is very lively and attracts a younger crowd. It's a great place to watch the sunset.
Ondarreta Beach: Explore Ondarreta Beach, the third main beach in San Sebastian. It's the least famous of the three and typically the quietest, making it a good spot for families.
#2: Old Town (Parte Vieja): Explore the vibrant (pedestrian-only) streets of San Sebastian's Old Town, filled with charming alleys, historic buildings, and bustling pintxo bars. Sample traditional Basque cuisine and savor the local flavors.
#3: Paseo Nuevo (Pasealeku Berria) & Mount Urgull: Enjoy a leisurely walk along Paseo Nuevo, a scenic path that winds along the rocky cliffs around Old Town. Take in the stunning views of the coastline and the crashing waves below. If you're feeling adventurous, continue on by hiking up Mount Urgull for panoramic views of San Sebastian and its surrounding landscapes. The hike offers a bit of a climb but rewards you with breathtaking vistas from the summit (a must-do in my opinion, especially at golden hour!).
#4: La Concha Promenade: Stroll along the iconic La Concha Promenade, which borders the famous Concha Bay, named for its shell-shaped appearance. Whether on foot or by bike along the cycle track, enjoy unbeatable views of the sea and pass by iconic landmarks such as the Hotel Londres, the Palacio Miramar, and the Perla Spa. Continue along the path to catch the funicular up to Monte Igueldo for the best views of San Sebastian (see #5 below).
#5: Monte Igueldo: For panoramic views of San Sebastian, take the funicular up to Monte Igueldo. Tickets are available at the base for a few Euro, and the short ride offers breathtaking vistas of the city and coastline.
#6: Walk the Urumea River: Enjoy a serene stroll along the Urumea River's elegant walkways and shady avenues. Admire the Zurriola Bridge's impressive lamp posts and discover the unique charm of the six bridges along the river.
#7: Pintxos Tour: Experience the best of San Sebastian's cuisine by embarking on a pintxos tour. Join a guided tour to learn about the local food culture, then explore the pintxo bars on your own. Some tour recommendations:
Tip: Book your pintxos tour early in your visit to get the lay of the land and feel confident venturing out solo for the rest of your stay. The pintxo bars get very busy so it can be intimidating ordering at the counter in a crowd.
Where to Eat in San Sebastian
San Sebastian is renowned for its culinary scene, boasting numerous Michelin-starred restaurants and pintxo bars (bite sized food). In Old Town, hop from one bar to another, indulging in delicious pintxos paired with regional wines. Try traditional dishes like tortilla de patatas (Spanish omelette), jamón ibérico (Spanish ham), and gilda (the first pintxo in history).
What is a pintxo? (pronounced pin-cho)
Pintxos, which comes from the Basque word "stick," are an essential part of the San Sebastian food scene. Similar to Spanish tapas, these small, flavorful bites offer a culinary journey. Originally, pintxos were simple slices of baguette piled high with various ingredients and secured with a cocktail stick. Over time, they've transformed into miniature cuisine creations, each offering a burst of unique flavors and creativity.
It's customary to hop from place to place, sampling various pintxos along the way (don't forget to pair them with a glass of Spanish wine)! Each bar boasts its own specialty pintxos, offering a unique taste of local flavors. It's an excellent way to explore the city's culinary scene. Most pintxo bars remain open all day (11 am - 11 pm). Pro tip: Many bars feature special deals on Thursday nights, making it an ideal time to immerse yourself in the pintxo culture.
Our favorite Pintxo Bars: Honestly, you can't go wrong at most spots in old town. Part of the fun is wandering and discovering new spots.
Sirimiri Gastroleku - Nestled in Old Town, Sirimiri Gastroleku offers a laid-back atmosphere and delicious pintxos. Don't miss their Pork Bao.
Atari Gastroleku - Located across from the stunning Basilica in Old Town, Atari Gastroleku boasts excellent people-watching opportunities, especially if you snag a table outside. Treat yourself to their delectable potatoes and refreshing sangria, it's also a good spot to grab dinner.
Gandarias - Another gem in Old Town, Gandarias is renowned for its grilled beef sirloin, cooked to perfection and bursting with flavor. It's a must-visit for meat lovers.
Bar Sport - Experience the vibrant atmosphere of Bar Sport, where locals and tourists alike gather to enjoy traditional Basque cuisine. Expect this place to be packed, it's worth the wait.
Aitana Donostia - Located just outside of Old Town and near La Concha Beach , this spot offers a trendy, upscale vibe. Indulge in their delicious tortilla and explore their inventive pintxos, such as the brie and nut creation that's sure to tantalize your taste buds. It's also a good spot to grab dinner.
Txepetxa Taberna: The place to go if you love anchovies. Some very creative variations.
Bar Nestor - They’re famous for their tortilla, which is very limited - only one made for lunch and one made for dinner and they only have about 16 servings. It’s worth lining up for! Come at noon to pre-order tortilla for lunch or dinner. They will open a small side window to take your order, and let you know when to come back. When they officially open upon your return, they will call your name when ready (don’t be late). Also recommended: the tomato salad, peppers and steak.
Note: we sadly didn't make it here! I've also heard Antonio Bar has amazing tortilla. They serve it first thing in the morning and mid-day but hurry because it goes fast!
Notes & Tips on Dining in San Sebastian:
If you plan to dine at Michelin-starred restaurants or popular pintxo bars, I'd recommend making reservations in advance, especially during weekends and holidays. If you don't mind standing and plan on hopping around, you don't need reservations at the pintxo bars (we never made any).
People typically eat lunch and dinner later in the day. Restaurants usually serve lunch between 1:30 pm and 3:30 pm and dinner between 8 pm and 11 pm.
Bars close around midnight during the week and 2 am on the weekend
Tips are not expected but appreciated if service is wonderful
Michelin Starred Restaurants: with the exception of Kyoto, Japan, no other place in the world has a greater concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants. See all Michelin recommended restaurants here (you can sort by stars but I also recommend sorting by budget). A few callouts:
Arzak: Three Stars – Elegant, family-run restaurant from 1897, with tasting menus specializing in modern Basque fare. Drive time from town: 6 minutes.
Restaurante Akelare | Pedro Subijana: Three Stars – Tasting menus of inventive, modern dishes, plus wine pairings, in a sleek venue with sea views. Drive time from town: 15 minutes.
Restaurante Kokotxa: One Star – Tasting menus of adventurous Basque cuisine, with a seafood focus, in an understated setting. Located in Old Town (can walk here).
Amelia by Paulo Airaudo: Two Stars – Nestled within the Villa Favorita hotel and led by an Argentine chef, this dining destination offers a unique fusion of Basque, Italian, and Asian flavors, acclaimed for its exceptional seafood creations. Located just steps off of La Concha Beach, near Old Town (can walk here).
Other Restaurants:
Old Town Coffee: Cute locally owned breakfast place with excellent coffee and great food options. We particularly enjoyed the avocado toast and salmon bagel, and they also offer gluten-free choices. It gets busy so you might have to wait a bit to snag a table (there's a cute boutique across the street you can pop in while you wait!).
NAP Pizza: Spanish pizza chain offering authentic Neapolitan pizza. Grab a pizza and a salad and take it to the beach for a causal, yet delicious meal.
Spots we didn't make it to but are highly recommended:
Rekondo: Romantic restaurant offering upscale Basque cuisine, plus a wine cellar & a terrace with bay views. The views look amazing!
Bodegón Alejandro: Seasonal tasting menus with game or fish dishes paired with wine, in a trendy, low-lit venue. One of the more affordable options with a tasting menu.
Mirador de Ulia: Fine dining, plus vegan & vegetarian menus, in an elegant space with beach, mountain & city views. The views look amazing!
Where to Stay
For a convenient location close to the city center and beaches, consider staying in a hotel or Airbnb in/near Old Town (although, it may get a little noisy at night with all the pintxo bars so be sure to check reviews) or along the Concha Promenade (for ocean views). Some hotel recs:
Hotel Lasala Plaza ($$$): Boutique property. Only hotel in the city center with a rooftop pool. You can have morning breakfast or afternoon cocktails up on the roof and take in the views. Yoga classes too. Located right in Old Town, walking distance to everything. This would probably be my top choice!
Hotel Arbaso ($$): Contemporary design. Located near the Good Shepherd of San Sebastian Cathedral. Centrally located and easy walk to all attractions. They also offer electric bikes to guests. Since it's not ocean-front, prices may be more reasonable than some of the other properties. Great restaurant in the hotel (Narru).
Nobu Hotel San Sebastián ($$$$): Beautiful boutique hotel (only 17 rooms) located along the Concha Promenade with incredible beach views. If you're not staying here, be sure to stop by the Nobu Terrace for yummy food and fabulous views.
Hotel Maria Cristina ($$$$): Most well-known property in the heart of the city. Also one of the largest hotels. Very beautiful property so even if you aren't staying here you should stop by for a cocktail.
Hotel Londres ($$): Good spot near the city center if you want a beach view. Little more dated interior. Can walk right out on the Concha Promenade.
Hotel Villa Favorita ($$$$): 5-star property. Ocean views, more updated rooms. Pricey. Great location, right along the Concha Promenade.
Hotel Akelarre ($$$$): Located about 15-minutes from town, this boutique hotel is attached to a 3 Michelin-star restaurant. it offers amazing ocean views and a sleek design. I personally would recommend staying closer to town and just stopping by for a cocktail (or a meal if you're ready to splurge at the restaurant).
We stayed in an Airbnb near Good Shepherd of San Sebastián Cathedral, where many locals live. The location was an easy walk to all the attractions in San Sebastian and in a quiet area.
Tips & Fun Facts about San Sebastian
Shops are open Monday - Saturday. Remember that many shops close for siesta in the afternoon, typically from 2 pm to 4:30 pm.
Queen María Cristina made San Sebastian her summer retreat for over 40 years, from 1887 to 1929, sparking significant development and growth as it attracted numerous Spanish royalty and aristocrats to the area. Explore one of the queen's residences by taking a leisurely stroll through the gardens of Palacio Miramar, commissioned in 1893, offering one of the finest views of the bay.
The Basque region is very isolated compared to most other parts of Spain. Geographically there's a mountain range that separates the Basque Country from the rest of the Iberian Peninsula. For that reason, they've been able to preserve their culture and language a lot more distinctly than some other places.
There's a large farming industry here, lots of agriculture, fishing and whaling.
San Sebastian hosts the prestigious San Sebastian International Film Festival, one of the most important film festivals in the world. In happens annually in September.
Boise, Idaho in the United States has the highest concentration of Basque people (~16,000) outside the Pyrenees.
Recommended Trip Extensions
La Rioja Wine Region: Embark on a day trip to the nearby La Rioja wine region, known for its world-class wineries and picturesque vineyards. Explore charming towns like Laguardia and indulge in wine tastings at renowned bodegas.
Bilbao: Visit the vibrant city of Bilbao, located approximately an hour's drive from San Sebastian. Explore the iconic Guggenheim Museum, stroll along the riverfront, and sample Basque cuisine at local eateries.
Madrid: Many international flights will fly into Madrid. Take a few days to explore this magical city before flying or driving to San Sebastian (5 hour drive). We rented a car in Madrid and stopped in the La Rioja wine region for a night on our way to San Sebastian. Car ride was super easy with well-maintained roads.
Other Trip Extensions (we sadly didn't have time for):
Biarritz: A scenic drive or train ride from San Sebastián lies the picturesque coastal town of Biarritz. Located on the French side of Basque Country, Biarritz boasts stunning beaches, vibrant surf culture, and charming Basque architecture.
A trip to San Sebastián offers a perfect mix of relaxation, exploration, and culinary delights. I cannot wait to get back to Basque Country.
Feel free to reach out to me on Instagram if you have any questions!
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